B.A: European City of South America

Buenos Aires is a city that combines the café culture and sophistication of the French, the spontaneity and warmth of Italians (not to mention their ice cream), the neuroses of New Yorkers and the prices of backpacker India. How all these elements are possible in one place and in one people, I don’t know. But there you have it.

It’s also one of the few remaining havens for those traveling on U.S. dollars. While the dollar is suffering from miserable exchange rates against the Euro and the British pound, it still goes a long way in Argentina. The currency crisis of 2001 turned one of South America’s most expensive cities into one of its cheapest. And while inflation is creeping in, it’s still hard to beat a place where you can get a great meal with wine for $10-20 per person (more on that in Dining in Buenos Aires) and a taxi across town for $5-7.

Families will find day-to-day life and traveling easier here than in other capital cities. While Londoners ignore children, New Yorkers flick their eyes upwards and Parisians tolerate only the silent ones, porteños (residents of Buenos Aires) expect people to be out with their children. They have a natural way with them—which avoids over indulgence—that puts other cities (and cultures) in the shade. 

• Evita’s Grave at the Recoleta Cementary.
• Phillie Casablanca

We moved here from London a year ago with my then 3-year-old daughter, Indigo. And in that time she has grown massively in confidence thanks to the kindness and generosity of the people—from waiters, to taxi drivers, to strangers on the bus, to hotel staff, not to mention the friends we have made. This isn’t a city in which residents congratulate themselves on how nice they are—the rest of Latin America caricatures Argentines as arrogant and pretentious. But our experience belies that.

Neighborhoods and What Not to Miss

Buenos Aires is a big city that magically seems to shrink when you are in it. From the air, this gran ciudad of about 13 million people looks like one endless snarl of buildings, concrete and people. In fact, when I flew over the city the first time I thought, “I can’t possibly live here.”

What I didn’t realize was how, once in the city, the neighborhoods come to the fore and give you a different angle on the city every mile or two. Here’s a brief rundown: 

San Telmo: cobblestone streets, antique shops, architectural heritage and bohemian spirit.

Don’t miss: Sunday antiques market (avoid this if you hate crowds, but my daughter loves the mimes and live music); admiring the 19th century architecture of Defensa and Bolivar streets; drinks and a snack at the historic, wooden paneled Bar Britanico (Defensa and Brasil streets); and a knees-up meat fest at Desnivel (Defensa 855).

Tips for parents: This barrio is still a bit run down but changing fast (we live here and love it). Local families abound, which makes it feel less touristy than other parts. But uneven pavements make strollers a bit tricky.