Iguazú: The Largest Falls You've Never Heard Of - 2

The main attraction is Garganta del Diablo, Devil’s Throat. This waterfall is a wide, semicircle with a dramatic drop of 82 meters (269 feet) and mist exploding at the bottom. However, we were more taken with this stunning sight than Indigo was. The platform was very crowded with people jostling for the amazing view and posing for photographs. Indigo much preferred running free on less-crowded platforms, throwing sticks into the water, looking for butterflies and climbing on the benches.

A bit of an adrenaline junkie, her top attraction was the boat ride to the falls. We had coached her on what to expect—fast turns, lots of noise, a choppy ride and a complete soaking when we edged up to the falls. I wouldn’t suggest this excursion to any parent who blanched when reading those words. The Zodiacs (inflatable boats with an engine) hold about 15 people and a few guides. Those in the know wear rain gear or swimsuits, and you are given a waterproof bag for your belongings. As we jetted out and zigged a few turns, we watched Indigo out of the corner of our eye, waiting for an “I want off this boat NOW” reaction. No chance—she was in her element. And as the boat pulled up to the shore, we had to do some quick thinking to avoid a meltdown as she wanted to do it again right away.

 

• On the Brazilian side of the falls is the Tropical das Cataratas Hotel.

superturtule

On day three, our guide took us across the border to Brazil, where there are amazing, panoramic views of the falls. It really is worth it—every photo you take looks like a postcard. (Note: We were traveling on U.K. passports; U.S. passport holders need a visa to enter Brazil; this must be obtained prior to your visit, and at the time of publication cost US$100.)

Months later, our daughter still shouts with excitement when she tells people about the adventure. “The boat went FAST. And the water came down, down, down on our heads!” she says, slapping her hands on top of her head. But she described it best as I put her to bed the night of the boat ride: “Now I know why people laugh and scream at the same time.”

Planning Essentials

• You don’t need a private guide, but it’s only about US$30 per day to hire one (for groups of 4 or less), and you can quiz them to your heart’s content. There are guides for hire at the park, but if you’re sure you want one, book in advance with a travel agency in Buenos Aires or Puerto Iguazú.
• If you’d rather do things on your own, there is a bus (every half hour) that goes right to the park from the bus station in Puerto Iguazú, maps at the visitors’ center at the entrance, and good signposting.
• The falls are always impressive but vary with the water level. There were floods in 2005 and a drought in 2006, so check the park’s Web site before you go. From December to early February, beware the summer heat and mosquitoes.
• Child proofing is pretty good but there are gaps, such as ramp ways.
• Restaurants are adequate but just that—sandwiches, pasta, burgers, etc.
• You can buy water and snacks at shops in the park, as well as rent a stroller for the day for A$70 (roughly US$23) at Cataratas station, the first stop on the train; they only have three so get there early. You can put strollers on the top of the train; the only place you can’t use them is the rock trail on the Lower Circuit.
• For anyone with an interest in birds, there are walking trails such as Macuco on the Argentinean side; go early in the morning or between 5-6 p.m. to have them to yourself.

[This article was originally published in January on our Alpha test site. It has since been updated.]