Florence: Italy’s Renaissance City

Stand directly beneath the dome to admire its vast vaulting, then climb inside the great double shell to see it (and Florence) from the top. For the closest view of the exterior of the dome, ascend Giotto’s bell tower, Il Campanile, beside the cathedral. Dome open Mon.-Fri. 8:30 a.m. to 6:20 p.m., Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., times which seem to change at a whim. Campanile open Apr.–Oct., daily 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Nov.–Mar. 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Giotto’s color scheme in decorating the outside of the tower set the pattern for the later marble facing of the cathedral itself, white from Carrara, green from Prato and red from Maremma. No less of artists than Pisano, della Robbia and Donatello added the reliefs picturing the history of the human race.

Although our kids were suitably impressed with the dome and thought it was cool to see it from the inside, they found an oddity in the Duomo that most tourists miss. The youngest had glazed over a bit and was standing watching the 24-hour clock on the inside of the façade wall when she realized it was moving backward. And not only does it run backward through its 24 hours, it begins the day with the setting sun.

Seeing the Sights

Florence’s major sights are so close together—most are within a 500-yard radius of Piazza della Signoria—that you might be tempted to think you can breeze through them in a hurry. You can’t, because each one contains so many highlights that it’s hard to aim for a single highlight from each. Not only are the sights in Florence superbly worth seeing, but they also represent the work—and often the masterpiece—of the greatest names of Renaissance art.

• The Brunelleschi dome of the Florence Cathedral.
• Calista Chandler

The Baptistery is the city’s oldest building, its foundations probably from before the 8th century, and the rest of it from 1059–1128. Its famous doors are aligned with the two great Roman roads that intersected here. The east door is considered Ghiberti’s masterpiece, and the original panels are in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo after very nearly being lost in a devastating flood in 1966. Inside the apse are 13th-century mosaics.

The Duomo’s museum is worth visiting for more than the original doors. Inside is one of Michelangelo’s most moving pietas, sculpted of Carrara marble that he personally selected from the quarry. Treasures of the cathedral complex were brought here for protection in the museum’s controlled climate. This bright and modern museum is one where you can probably get kids to spend a bit of time, especially if you promise them a visit to the current repair workshop for the Duomo, around the corner at Via dello Studio 23.

San Lorenzo is another larger-than-life church, lavishly decorated by the powerful Medici family, who hired only the best—Michelangelo, Brunelleschi and Donatello. Around to the side are the Medici Chapels, a mausoleum of Medicis, several of whose grandiose tombs are also by Michelangelo.

• Palazzo Vecchio, which serves as Florence's town hall, towers high in the Piazza della Signoria.
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Piazza della Signoria has another cluster of sights that includes the Palazzo Vecchio (the city hall), one of two copies of Michelangelo’s David and a loggia of other statues. Between the café-filled piazza and the river stretches the fabled Uffizi Gallery, one of the world’s great art museums. Anyone with an interest in Renaissance painting will have 15 of the 45 galleries to savor; the best-known work is Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. Beyond is Ponte Vecchio, lined with shops and one of Europe’s most widely recognized icons.

Lodging and Dining

Hotels in Florence run the gamut from youth hostels to art deco villas. In the center, 10 minutes from the Duomo and a few steps from the church of Santa Maria Novella, we like Grand Hotel Minerva (Pza S Maria Novella 16, tel. +39-055-27230, www.grandhotelminerva.com). The kids loved the swimming pool on the roof with a view over the city. When we’re there without the kids, we head for Hotel Villa La Vedetta (Viale Michelangiolo 78, tel. +39-055-681-631, www.villalavedettahotel.com), which overlooks the entire city from terraced gardens. The décor is stylish and the amenities include marble bathrooms, whirlpool tubs and a free courtesy bus to the center.

Cantinetta del Verrazzano, near the Duomo, serves light meals and sandwiches (not your usual, the options include wild boar). Via dei Tavolini 18, tel. +39-055-268-590. Open Mon.-Sat.

• These bronze Gates of Paradise open into the Florence Baptistry, one of the oldest buildings in the city.
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La Spada patrons like to order the tris (trio) of house-made pastas to share; kids will like the abundant pastas, roasted pork and lively atmosphere. You’ll like the family-friendly prices and location near Santa Maria Novella. Via della Spada 62, tel. +39-055-218-757, www.laspadaitalia.com. Open Tue.-Sat. noon to 3 p.m., 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Mario only serves lunch (generous helpings of it) near the Mercato Centrale market. A good choice for kids. Via Rosina 2, tel: +39-055-218-550.

The Mercato Centrale itself is a good source of picnic fare, open Mon.–Sat. 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. (Saturday also 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.).