Lumbini Travel, Birthplace of Buddha

As I sat squeezed against the windscreen of a decrepit bus, I recalled what I’d read about public transport in Nepal: Try to avoid it where you can, steer clear of nighttime travel and always opt for the back of the bus—these were the pearls of wisdom offered by my guidebook. But here I was, on my Nepal vacation, just inches from the windscreen with another 50 or so passengers squeezed into the seats and aisle behind me, all trying to continue their excited conversation above the music blaring from an ancient sound system.

Of course, I was lucky to find a seat at all, for this wasn’t any normal day. I was heading to Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, on the approximate anniversary of his birth in May. Pilgrims, both Buddhist and Hindu, flock from across India and Nepal to visit the spot that Siddhartha Gautama was born around the year 563 B.C. I decided to join them and witness a religious site that’s surprisingly under-visited by Western travelers.

Pilgrimage Rituals

This was not my first visit to Lumbini; I had actually made the trip from nearby Bhairawa the day before to get a feel for the place before the crowds descended. As I sat under a shady tree, reading and listening to the therapeutic fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags, I couldn’t help thinking about the eve of another religious figure’s birth. Here a feeling of calm excitement reigned, rather than the stresses of last-minute shopping that characterize Christmas Eve in the West. Humble offerings of small coins, flowers and rather bizarrely, hair, replaced the excessive gifts given back at home.

Holy Sites and History

Once I had watched the pilgrimage rituals for a while, I closed my book and followed suit. After walking the paths built around remains of ancient monasteries, I headed for the Ashokan Pillar, skipping the step where others bathed in the Holy Pond. The Buddha’s mother washed here before giving birth to him, so bathing in the pond is an important part of the pilgrimage. Holy it may be, but I couldn’t help worrying about the mossy color of the water and what might happen if I accidentally ingested a little, so I skipped straight to the six-meter high pillar.

 

• Pilgims to Lumbini pause at the Holy Pond where Siddartha’s mother, Mayadevi, bathed before giving birth.

Lucy Corne

The former King Ashoka erected the pillar as a tribute to Buddha when he traveled the region in 249 B.C. An iron fence surrounds the column, creating an enclosure where visitors place their offerings. I tossed in a few coins, eschewing the practice of presenting locks of hair as a gift. It’s very odd seeing thick curls of hair lying among more traditional offerings, but the practice dates back to when Siddhartha Gautama shunned his privileged background, shaved his head and left Lumbini in search of enlightenment.

Next: Mayadevi Temple and Buddha’s Birthday Party