Maui No Ka Oi

On a map, the island of Maui looks like the torso of a broad-shouldered man leaning forward. When I pointed this out to the 4-year-old girl sitting next to me on the plane, she said he was probably just looking at the water. Probably.

Maui is about more than just pretty beaches, though it has them in droves. It’s also a place with deep history and culture that, thankfully, hasn’t been obscured by its status as one of the most popular vacation destinations in the world. In fact, locals have a strong drive to preserve their culture—and that’s good for everyone, visitors and locals alike. As the locals say, Maui No Ka Oi—Maui is the best.

It’s an outdoor destination: Surfers, snorkelers, hikers and golfers routinely make the pilgrimage, and there are also opportunities (for all ages) to learn a native art, such as lei making or hula, take a cooking class or sample local wine (read our Maui activities article).

• A beautiful tropical sunset over a beach in Maui.
• gimpbully

And Maui is bigger than you think it is. The second largest of the Hawaiian Islands is 728 square miles, most of it accessible by car. It’s essential to have at least a week to explore if you want to see the whole island. Even if your plan is to just park yourself at a resort and forget the world—and there are innumerable places to do this—your immediate environs will beckon you “off-campus.”

Your most difficult decision is where to set up your base. The island has many distinct microclimates, ranging from rainforest (North Shore) to desert (the remote East Shore). The west and south sides of the island are leeward, so the water tends to be somewhat calmer (with exceptions) and the weather drier. The North Shore is the windward side, which gets a lot of weather drama and has potentially high waves, especially in winter.

• Dancers demonstrate traditional Hawaiian dances at a luau.
• D'Arcy Norman

West Maui

The west side of the island is where most of the affordable hotels are, and the main resort town—with the island’s longest stretch of beach—is Ka’anapali. One of the best spots to settle in is the Westin Maui. It’s smack on the beach and has grand views of neighboring islands Lanai and Molokai. It’s a hotel that will make the kids especially happy. The Keiki (kids) Club is one of the best on this side of Maui, and it’s a bargain at $75 per day for ages 5 to 12. Highlights include a moonlit search for geckos and toads that populate the property.

You’ll want to check out nearby Lahaina (about a 20-minute drive), which is the closest thing Maui has to a downtown. The 1.5–mile stretch is always crowded, but if you don’t mind walking (it’s very flat) you can typically park just once. Have lunch at Aloha Mixed Plate, where you’ll find teriyaki chicken, lomi lomi salmon and kalua pig (Hawaii’s version of barbecue, pit-roasted whole pig).

• A couple relaxes poolside at the newly renovated Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa.
• Gary Kufner

And don’t miss the famous banyan tree, the largest in the United States, planted in 1873 when it was a mere eight feet tall. Now it encompasses almost the entirety of a city park—and, while it has many offshoots, it’s all one tree!

South Shore

The most upscale part of the island is home to the resort town of Wailea. Volcanic rock lines the shore, punctuated by small sandy coves that serve as the beaches for each of the hotels on the strip (although all beaches on Maui are public). You can’t go wrong when choosing a hotel, but the Fairmont Kea Lani and the Grand Wailea offer the most variety and the best amenities for kids (again, read our Maui activities article). The Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa also recently completed a $60 million renovation, adding an adults-only serenity pool and the Mala Wailea restaurant under chef Mark Ellman, in addition to upgrades throughout the resort.

Five beaches are linked by a paved walking path up above the shore, just under two miles long and planted with tropical flowers and shrubs. Keep in mind that mornings tend to be the best time to swim. Afternoons bring trade winds—which mean high waves—and often rain.