Naples Restaurants, Where to Eat in Naples
Pizza, Pesci and Produce in Naples
The city is famous for inventing pizza, but don’t let that narrow your taste buds.
Naples is still a deeply traditional place in terms of eating, drinking and making merry. But don't let that put you off, traditional is not code for boring; in Naples it means excellent quality, authentic local and regional produce and flavors, and, usually, a convivial ambiance. In the past decade, several young chefs and restaurateurs have opened sleeker, more modern venues serving an updated version of the already excellent regional cuisine to great effect.
An evening out in Naples starts with an aperitivo in the upmarket Chiaia neighborhood, and more specifically in one of the bars located between Via Alabardieri and Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, such as the Enoteca Belledonne (Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18, tel. +39-081-403162), a genial and attractive wine bar that serves some of the best wines of Campania by the glass, or Gran Caffe Cimmino (Via G. Filangieri 12-13 Piazza dei Martiri, tel. +39-081-418303), voted one of the top 20 bars in Italy by Gambero Rosso (the Italian version of the Michelin guides), and an obligatory stopover during Neapolitan aperitivo hour.
For a more sedate cocktail hour, or coffee break at any time of the day, you can do little better than Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19, tel. +39-081-5516944), home to pastry-aficionados for generations (try its flaky sfogliatelle, filled with sweet ricotta and candied fruit, ministeriale chocolates filled with rum and chocolate cream).
Il Vero Bar del Professore (Piazza Trieste e Trento 46, tel. +39-081-403041), has a tiny and permanently jam-packed café serving 63 varieties of coffee (try their best-selling caffè nocciolato made with hazelnut).
Dining out is key to a night out in Napoli and all Neapolitans, regardless of age or income, take it extremely seriously. The odds of eating well in this city are very high, whether you opt for a simple pizza at city institutions or a three-course meal at a traditional trattoria. Lombardi (Via Benedetto Croce 59, tel. +39-081-5520780); Brandi (Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo 1-2, tel. +39-081-416928, www.brandi.it); Da Michele (Via Cesare Sersale 3, tel. +39-081-5539204); Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32, tel. +39-081-446643) and Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba (Via Port’Alba 18, tel. +39-081-4421061) are just some of Naples’ most renowned pizzerie and a very reliable bet for a good meal.
For traditional Neapolitan cuisine of a high standard, opt for the rustic and classical charms of the Taverna dell’Arte (Rampe S. Giovanni Maggiore 1/a, tel. +39-081-5527558), whose delectable menu is based on 17th-century Campanian regional recipes that have been updated for modern palates; the family-run Mattozzi l’Europeo (Via Campodisole Marchese 4, tel. +39-081-5521323, www.europeomattozzi.it), which combines efficient and friendly service, a warm and entertaining atmosphere, decent prices and consistently high-quality cuisine; the Antica Cantina di Sica (Via G. Bernini 17, tel. +39-081-5567520) in the well-heeled Vomero neighborhood, which has a beautiful plant-filled terrace; or the elegantly old-fashioned Mimì alla Ferrovia (Via Alfonso d’Aragona 19/21, tel. +39-081-5538525, www.mimiallaferrovia.it) near Piazza Garibaldi, a favorite with Naples’ theater and film crowds.