The Bay Islands: Old-School Caribbean

The Bay Islands of Honduras give visitors a taste of what the Caribbean was like before development surged: a laid-back paradise with clear turquoise water, lush tropical vegetation and an easy integration into island life with no high-rises, no traffic and no stress. The barrier reef system that rings them like a jeweled necklace is second in size only to the Great Barrier Reef. Pirates and buccaneers once took rum-influenced breathers here; Captain Henry Morgan frequented the islands as well. Modern-day folks who want to escape the rat race (like me) are building vacation homes here.

I’ve been traveling to the Bay Islands—Roatán, Utila and Guanaja—since 1997. While I’ve seen an increase in development since that time, the islands are far behind the pace of the rest of the Caribbean. As more people discover the easygoing vibe these gems have to offer, the Bay Islands face the challenge of how to grow without losing paradise. Special attention is focused on Roatán—the darling of airlines, developers and cruise ships. A new $50 million cruise ship port facility, a partnership between Roatán and Carnival Corporation, will open in late 2009. In five years, the island expects to host 225 cruise ship calls annually.

Accommodations on the islands range from backpacker hostels to all-inclusive resorts. Restaurants serve a variety of styles—from pizza to barbecue to seafood to Honduran typico breakfasts (eggs, beans, chorizo and fruit). Prices for meals can vary, depending on whether you dine at a small beachside restaurant or a large, fancy resort. A lobster dinner can range from $8 in a local restaurant to upwards of $20 in the swankiest of spots.

• The Bay Islands’ clear, warm water makes kayaking an enjoyable way to travel.
• Jill Robinson

The Bay Islands were once a British colony, and most folks speak a lilting English, so while you can ask for that cerveza, you don’t need to break out the Spanish dictionary.

Roatán: Something for Everyone

Roatán is the most family-friendly of the islands, with the widest variety of hotels, restaurants and activities. Water adventures cover everything from swimming with dolphins at Anthony’s Key Resort to fishing, kayaking, diving and glass-bottom boat tours. Visit the Roatán Butterfly Garden or the Iguana Farm to check out native island wildlife.

It’s easy to spend an entire day at Gumbalimba Park—with its animal preserve, botanical gardens, history tour, pirate’s cave, arts and crafts center, horseback riding and water activities (such as kayaking, snorkeling, snuba and catamaran tours). The park’s zip-line rides through the jungle canopy are closed until May 2008 to install a more secure system, as a result of a March 2008 fatality. The park is open seven days a week, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. General park admission is $20 for adults, and $10 for children 12 years and under. Various combination packages are available, such as the park and canopy ride combo ($55); or the park, canopy ride and horse ride combo ($85). Combination packages as well as activity only (without park admission) prices are not discounted for children. It can get crowded when the cruise ships are docked, so check in advance with your hotel to make sure you can get tickets on your preferred day.

West End and West Bay have the largest selection of restaurants—you can try a new place to eat for every meal during your stay. Kids from Germany, Italy and the United States play with local children all along the beach and scout out shells and flotsam. Towards the other end of the island is the Garifuna community of Punta Gorda. The Yubu center exhibits traditional handicrafts, dancing and food from these descendants of Carib Indians and West Africans.

• Gumbalimba Park is a great way to get up close and personal with some of Roatán's more feathery inhabitants.
• Lauri Väin

Where to Stay

Anthony’s Key Resort. Comfortable wooden cabanas line the resort’s hillside and lagoon. Leisure packages from $89 per night (meals, diving and snorkeling are extra). Dive packages from $129 per night. Children’s programs include dolphin summer day camp ($850 per camper for a 7-night stay) or a variety of diving classes. Tel. 800-227-3483. www.anthonyskey.com