Travel Planning to the Bay Islands of Honduras

Utila: Aqua Paradise

With more than 60 different dive sites to choose from, it’s no wonder that Utila, the smallest of the Bay Islands, is a diver’s destination. It's also one of the least expensive places in the world to get scuba certification: as little as $259 per person. You may even get a chance to swim with the world’s largest fish—the whale shark. This docile member of the shark family can be spotted year round in the waters off Utila.

You don’t have to be a diver to enjoy life on the island, however. Other sports, like snorkeling, kayaking and boating allow equal time for the family in the piercingly blue water. If chilling near the sandy beach is your goal, plenty of affordable restaurants, bars, and hotels will be happy to accommodate you.

• Little shops line the narrow streets on the island of Utila.
• Cristian Borquez

For an off-the-beaten-path experience, hop a water taxi to nearby Water Cay. The uninhabited island is an ideal location to spend your day—whether you choose to snooze in the shade or snorkel along the coral reef. Water taxis can be hired throughout the main town, but ask at your hotel or a dive shop for the best recommendations.

Where to Stay

The Utila Lodge. Relax in an over-water room and enjoy your private view of the Caribbean. Rates begin at $149 per night for non-divers. Dive packages include meals, 3 daily boat dives, and airport transfers ($1,049 per person for a 7-night package). Babysitting is available for about $2 per hour. Tel. 800-282-8932. www.utilalodge.com

Guanaja: Natural Island Adventure

If your vacation fantasy includes hiking to crystal-clear waterfalls, wandering miles of unspoiled beaches and swimming among Crayola-colored fish—look no further than Guanaja. The island has no paved roads; all transportation is by foot, bicycle, or boat. Here, it’s easy to pretend you’re at the end of the world, and I like to remind myself what that feels like at least once a year.

• Graham’s Cay on the island of Guanaja has numerous bungalows and beach houses for visitors who really need to get away from it all.
• Half Moon Bay Kayak Company

The north side has the majority of the island’s dive sites and the longest stretches of powdery beaches. I’m not a diver (yet), but I enjoy snorkeling on the north side. The south side is more populated and includes Bonacca, Guanaja’s main town, which straddles two nearby cays. Whether you prefer hiking the many trails, kayaking or diving in the turquoise water, bone fishing in the shallows, or just rocking gently in a hammock stirred by the trade winds and hearing kids chatter with native yellow-naped parrots—this remote island feels lost in a pleasantly tropical time warp. Locals tell me this is what Roatán and Utila looked like 25 years ago.

Where to Stay

Graham’s Place. Bungalows on the beach look from Graham’s privately owned cay across the water to Guanaja. Rates begin at $100 per night, and include meals (the conch fritters are my favorite) and airport transfers. Tel. 305-407-1568. www.grahamsplacehonduras.com