Malta Travel: History, Hotels, Dining, Attractions

Ask Americans about Malta, and most of the recognition will be from fans of the Humphrey Bogart film noir classic, The Maltese Falcon.

Yet the real Malta, set at the crossroads of the Mediterranean between the island of Sicily and Libya’s African coast, boasts a history and culture enriched by thousands of years as a vital strategic link of trade routes, gorgeous Mediterranean weather, spectacular, unspoiled beaches and a bilingual population that use both English and Maltese as official languages, and the Euro (since 2008) as its unit of currency.

Malta Then and Now

Malta is actually three islands, the largest being Malta, followed by Gozo and sparsely inhabited Comino. A member of the European Union, Malta gained independence from Britain in 1964—the last of a string of imperial rulers that stretch back to the Romans, Greeks and even the Phoenicians.

All these empires left their mark on Malta’s culture, its language (which does not resemble other European tongues at all), its cuisine (except for the British, thankfully, who after 150 years of colonization did not managed to impose delicacies like Toad-in-a-Hole on Malta’s strongly Sicilian-influenced cooking style) and most especially its architecture.

Malta is a fortress island ruled by the Sovereign Order of St. John of Jerusalem (the crusading Knights Hospitallers of Maltese Falcon fame who built a number of fortresses, palaces and cathedrals) from 1530 until the British took over to keep the strategic redoubt from Napoleon; a pair of forts tower over Malta’s Grand Harbour, fashioned from the same honey-colored limestone as virtually every structure on the island. At sunset it glows, making early evening walks or harbor tours by boat a must.

 

• The Hagar Qim temple, along with several other Maltese megalithic temples, are among the oldest religious structures on Earth, dating back to nearly 3200 B.C.

foxypar4

A good deal of its tourism comes from Britain, where Fortress Malta was a familiar cornerstone of the empire until independence.

Maltese Attractions

Hagar Qim and Ggantija Temples

Malta’s history dates back to the Stone Age, when Sicilian migrants built still-standing temples that predate the Great Pyramids, albeit on a substantially smaller scale. The 5,600-year-old Hagar Qim (tel. +356-2142-4231) temple on Malta and the Ggantija Temples on Gozo are both interesting excursions and offer a hands-on experience that works well for children. Admission for each site: €5.82 (US $7.50) for adults 18 to 59; €2.91(US $3.75) for students 12 to 17; €1.75 for children 6 to 11; free for children 5 and under.

UNESCO World Heritage Site: Hai Saflieni Hypogeum

Underneath an unassuming Valletta side street is an underground temple burial complex, the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 5,400-square-foot Hypogeum was hewn from rock and contains an abundance of artifacts. Tours of the carefully sealed structure are strictly limited and should be booked a month or more in advance. Admission: €9.32 (US $12) for adults 18 to 59; €4.66 (US $6) for children 6 to 17; children under 5 are not allowed into the complex.

Fortified Forts

The 900-year-old Knights Hospitallers still exist, in a less warlike body, and regularly sponsor period costume re-enactment. The centers of the order’s history comprise the grandest structures on Malta, beginning with Fort St. Angelo and Fort St. Elmo (the site of frequent Sunday re-enactments by the Knights), which stand on either side of the Grand Harbour—site of the Great Siege of 1565, when the Knights held off an Ottoman Turk invasion fleet 10 times their size—and the ornate Grand Master’s Palace in Valletta. The latter houses the Maltese parliament, so tours can be erratic, but the Tapestry Chamber, with its stunning Gobelin tapestries and the vividly frescoed Hall of St. Michael and St. George, otherwise known as the throne room, are highlights.  

 

• St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Malta is decorated with stunning artwork, like Caravaggio’s ‘Beheading of John the Baptist.’

jonrawlinson

Caravaggio in the Cathedral

The artistic highlight of Malta is without a doubt St. John’s Co-Cathedral (St. John’s Street, tel. +356-2122-0536) which houses Caravaggio’s masterpiece, The Beheading of St. John the Baptist, as well as his St. Jerome Writing, another important painting by the artist, who fled to Malta to escape murder charges. Then there is the floor of the co-cathedral, so named because the Knights decided they needed a cathedral of their own, despite church law forbidding more than one in any diocese. The wealthy crusaders are entombed under incredibly elaborate marble mosaics that cover the entire nave. Don’t plan a quick stop—it is breathtaking. Admission: €5.82 (US $7.50) for adults 12 and over; children under 12 free when accompanied by an adult.

Fort Rinella

The legacy of the British period—which began when Lord Wellington took Malta away from Napoleon and continued through the fierce bombing campaign ordered by General Rommel to protect the Nazi invasion of North Africa—can be found at Fort Rinella, a British fortification with the world’s largest cannon and daily re-enactments in 19th century costume, as well as restored period interiors. Admission: €8 (US $10.32) for adults 17 and over; €7 (US $9) for children 16 and under. Fondazzjoni Wirt Artna, Notre Dame Gate, St. Edward’s Street. Tel. +356-2180-0992, www.wirtartna.org.

Next: Malta’s Lay of the Land