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Québec: North America’s European City
From its historical sites and enclosing wall to its French-influenced culture and cuisine, Québec City offers enticing options for all ages.
From its historical sites and enclosing wall to its French-influenced culture and cuisine, Québec City offers enticing options for all ages.
Soak up the European atmosphere, and don’t try to see all the sites. Visit a few—Artillery Park with its costumed interpreters and the Citadel for the changing of the guard (skip the tour unless kids are older and intrigued by all things military). A walk along the top of the ramparts gives an overview of the city and its history.
Take in enough of these sights to get a sense of the 400 years since Samuel de Champlain first landed in 1608 and established a settlement here. A visit to the Plains of Abraham (take a picnic to enjoy while you savor the views from atop the palisades) will tell the story of how the French and English played tug-of-war with Québec until the battle in 1759 where both generals were killed and the British finally prevailed. Our 7-year-old’s eyes glazed over at the battle re-enactment itself, but she was delighted by the high-tech presentation.
Other sites throughout the city will fill in the details, especially those set up to celebrate the anniversary. You’ll have no trouble remembering when Québec was founded—you’ll hear and see “400” everywhere in the city during the 2008 festivities. The Urban Life Interpretation Centre (43 Côte de la Fabrique) is a multilingual, multimedia show that brings the city’s past to life. Children under 12 are admitted free.
It’s not all history, of course. Québec is all about what’s new and different, and nowhere have they embraced cutting edge technology more than in the museum and multimedia exhibits created for the 400th anniversary celebrations. We had trouble getting any of the kids out of the Musée de la Civilisation (86 Rue Dalhousie), where they take interaction to its outer limits, especially in the workshop exhibit The Earth’s Unveiled. Everyone liked it, even though it’s designed for ages 11-14. Who wouldn’t be drawn into exhibits that simulate an earthquake (quite realistically) and a tsunami? Also in the riverside neighborhood is the Place Royale, where there is always something going on—an historical re-enactment or street performers. The nearby park has an excellent playground.
When the kids are ready for something with no educational merit at all, head for
Village Vacances Valcartier (1860 Blvd. Valcartier). This outdoor adventure park, about 20 minutes north of the center by car, is a water park in the summer, with slides, wave pool and water shows. When the season turns cold, it offers tubing, sledding, skating (rentals available) and other winter activities.
There’s another amusement park with rides (including a roller coaster and bumper cars) and entertainment inside the super-mall Les Galeries. Of course, Les Galeries is packed with shops of all stripes, and although it’s not as charming as browsing the boutiques of the old town, it’s easier to push a stroller here, and one of the few places in the city with excellent baby-changing facilities in the restrooms.
If your children are older, get them in on making the plans, before you even get to Québec. Ask them to search out places on the Web and when you get there remember to add in a few tastes of adult life, too—maybe a fine-dining dinner (let them choose by browsing menus as you wander or search online).
Abandon yourself to the romance of this old city and revel in its European ambiance. Take a carriage ride, stroll the promenade, linger in sidewalk cafés (or steamy cozy coffee houses in the Quartier Petit Champlain in the winter). Go on a gourmet tour along Rue Saint-Jean, stopping in the food shops and to sample chocolates at the Choco-Musée Érico (634 Rue Saint-Jean). Romantic dining is an art in Québec, so book a table at L’Échaudé (tel. 418-692-1299) in the old port area, and savor the fish and mussels in lobster broth. La Crémallière (tel. 418-692-2216), located in an old mansion inside the city walls, specializes in escargot wrapped in paper-thin pastry.
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