Rome: Catacombs For Kids

The three layers of San Clemente

Under the Basilica of San Clemente (close to the Colosseum) are the remains of entire streets of Nero’s Rome, including a still-active fountain, and this underground city is less scary than the catacombs and has more variety. Excavations began under the basilica in 1857, discovering not only the original 4th-century basilica underneath, but also 1st-century buildings beneath that.

One find is a brick building with a 2nd-century Mithraic temple in its courtyard and the other is a grander building around a courtyard. Without the group tour that’s required for catacomb visits, you’re free to wander around and discover things, like the underground spring.

How did these get underneath the church? In the 4th century, the lower-story rooms and courtyard were filled in to form the foundation for a basilica that lasted until 1100 AD, when it was abandoned because of structural problems. This basilica was filled in with rubble to form a foundation for a replica of it —the church you see today.

Via di San Giovanni in Latero 108, open Mon.-Sat. 9-12:30 p.m. and 3-6, p.m., Sunday and holidays noon-6 p.m.

• Tomb of St. Sebastian, formerly in the catacombs beneath the epynomous church
• Antmoose

High creep factor (aka teen appeal)

The crypt under Santa Maria della Concezione on Via Veneto, near Piazza Barberini, is possibly the most eerie and bizarre of Rome’s many crypts. Its walls are almost completely lined with the skulls of more than 4,000 Capuchin monks who died between 1528 and 1870. Entire skeletons—more like mummies —in their hooded robes languish in niches. Bones form intricate baroque swirls inside vaulted ceiling. It’s bizarre enough to delight any kid.

Underneath St. Peter’s in the Vatican is a cemetery where the remains of St. Peter were found, long after he was removed from the catacombs and reburied there. In these grottos are the tombs of early and modern popes; St. Peter’s is behind a glass wall. While you’re there, be sure to climb (or ride the elevator) up to Michelangelo’s dome, 375 feet above.

As my daughter said when we left and walked across the vast piazza, “We’ve done the Vatican from top to bottom.”

Piazza San Pietro, tel. +06-698-81662, www.vatican.va