Georgia Island Travel, Coastal Savannah
The Idyllic Islands of Georgia
Georgia’s historic coastal islands offer everything from haute to honky-tonk and a pristine national seashore.
Georgia’s historic coastal islands offer everything from haute to honky-tonk and a pristine national seashore.
A quirk of geography—the Atlantic seaboard’s long inward curve between North Carolina and south Florida—makes coastal Georgia a watery paradise. The beaches and coastal islands are shaped by high tides. All this water pushes inland, creating a vast, low panorama of swamp, salt marsh, tidal creeks and barrier islands. This is a stunningly pristine region; most of the islands aren’t even inhabited. Those that are offer a range of vacation styles, all within a day-trip from Savannah.
Just 12 miles from the city is Tybee Island, an old-fashioned and deliciously unpretentious beach town. There’s nothing slick—not a Starbuck’s in sight. The main drag is a jumble: old cottages and motels, newer low-rise condos, miscellaneous shops and restaurants. (People gladly stand in line at the Breakfast Club, “World Famous Since 1976,” where the spicy sausage is homemade. 1500 Butler Ave.) The quiet back streets are lined with simple cottages, many with big-screened porches, many for rent.
There are five miles of broad ocean beach. On the bay side, there’s the seemingly endless world of marshes, creeks and islands—watersports heaven. A perfect way to explore it—quietly, at sea level—is by kayak through Sea Kayak Georgia. A half-day guided tour to gorgeously natural Little Tybee Island and up a tidal creek into the marsh is $55. Full-day and custom camping ventures are also offered. 1102 Highway 80. Tel. 888-529-2542. Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. www.seakayakgeorgia.com
Tybee attractions include a lighthouse dating from 1773, which you can climb for a dazzling view. Oddball 19th-century Fort Screven now houses private residences, but is also the site of a local history museum.
Mostly, Tybee is a place to lay back. There are a few white-tablecloth restaurants. But the scene is more authentic on a waterfront deck where diners might arrive in bathing suits and flip-flops. Lively Cafe Loco is steps from the shrimp boats that provide its daily supply. Its owner fondly calls it “honky-tonk.” Tybee Waterfront Village. Tel. 912-786-7810. cafelocotybeeisland.com
AJ’s Dockside faces the bay and marsh, with a straightforward seafood menu, a stunning sunset view and a Margaritaville vibe. 1315 Chatham Ave. Tel. 912-786-9533. Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. ajsdockingtybee.com
Some Georgia islands, once plantations, later became private winter playgrounds for the wealthy. The tobacco-rich Reynolds family owned Sapelo, and in the 1920s rebuilt its 1810 cotton planter’s mansion. The island, reached only by ferry, is now a state nature preserve. The 13-bedroom mansion is available for group stays or tours.
Reynolds Mansion. Tel. 912-437-3224 (tours) and tel. 912-485-2299 (lodging reservations). Mansion reservations are based on availability and require a minimum of 16 guests and a two-night stay; the mansion can accommodate up to 29 guests. Rates start at $175 per person per night, and include three meals per day. www.gastateparks.org
Sapelo is also the site of tiny Hog Hammock, among the last remaining original Gullah communities. Gullah people (also known as Geechee) are descended from slaves who worked on island plantations. Due to the isolation on the Georgia and South Carolina islands, they retain a culture and language closer to their African roots than that of other African-Americans.
The village has a few guesthouses and eating spots, and guided tours are offered. There’s also a campground with hot showers. Expect to walk or bike on sandy lanes to explore the island’s empty beaches, haunting plantation ruins and an ancient American Indian shell ring. [Read more about Gullah culture in the South.]
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