Chicago Dining, Then and Now

Locals have always known that Chicago is a fantastic food town—something I worked hard to convince New Yorkers of when I moved there several years ago.

I grew up in Chicagoland (as the locals like to call the area that falls within about a 50-mile radius from the city) and fell in love with the city’s immigrant food scene at an early age: from the Polish restaurants on the Northwest side (try the Red Apple buffet) to red-checkered-tablecloth Italian joints on Taylor Street (Rosebud remains solid) and the wonderful Greek establishments on Halsted west of the Loop. (I'm partial to the stewed octopus served on Fridays at Rodity’s.) 

One of my first “adult” meals, at 10 years old, was at The Berghoff, a bustling German restaurant in downtown’s Loop that had been a Chicago landmark for more than a century. I remember it being surrounded by businessmen in suits while male waiters (new to me at the time) pushed large carts of steaming meats around.

It closed in 2006, and the owners’ daughter has established a more casual place serving traditional Weiner schnitzel and sauerbraten mixed in with paninis, salads and other lighter fare in what had been the restaurant’s bar—the very same one that served men exclusively until the National Organization for Women helped end the segregation practice in 1969, just six years before my first meal there.

Other longtime favorites have bitten the dust over the years, including Ambria, which until last summer had been an elegant French restaurant in the art nouveau Belden-Stratford building, overlooking Lincoln Park.

There remain, however, several traditional Chicago dining experiences, especially for families, that made an indelible impression on my young palate and still remind me of home, along with a few new places that are worthy of beginning new traditions.

• Geja’s Cafe is a Lincoln Park favorite for fondue.
• A. S. Van Dorston

Fondue

Big in the ‘70s and occasionally making a retro comeback every few years, Chicago has managed to keep not one, not two, but at least three fondue restaurants operating. Kids of any age will enjoy dipping chunks of food into pots of hot oil or melted cheese, or fruit and marshmallows into a well of rich, bubbling chocolate.

340 W. Armitage Ave. (bet. Clark St. and Lincoln Ave.), tel. 773-281-9101, www.gejascafe.com

• Fondue Stube brings a bit of Teutonic flare to the dipping experience. It’s located in the revitalized Northwest Side neighborhood Lincoln Square, which was once part of Chicago’s Germantown.

2717 W. Peterson Ave., tel. 773-784-2200, www.fonduestube.com

• The family-friendly Melting Pot chain has a branch in the River North neighborhood that also offers chess, checkers and shuffleboard. Three additional locations are in nearby suburbs.

• Stuffed or deep-dish, Chicago pizza is the best.
• Jeremy Keith

609 N. Dearborn St., tel. 312-573-0011, www.meltingpot.com

Pizza

Most people think Chicago pizza means deep dish. But I’m partial to that “other” style from Chi-town: stuffed. A 2-inch crust rings your choice of ingredients and cheese, with another crust on top, piled on with tomato sauce and even more cheese, then baked. One slice is a meal in itself.

• Giordano’s is the most well-known of this breed of pie, with more than 40 locations in the Chicagoland area.

• Bella Bacino’s, the downtown branch of the original Bacino’s in Lincoln Park (which hasn’t changed at all in the 25 years since my first visit), delivers regularly to the growing number of hotels surrounding its Wacker Drive location near the Chicago River.

• For a healthier option, try Edwardo’s Natural Pizza one of the first to offer whole-wheat crust and stuffed spinach with cheese filling.