Our first few days in Israel were jam packed with fantastic sights and activities, during which we pretty much had minimal downtime since there is so much to do and see. (Hence, no posts the past couple days. Read previous post on arrival in Israel.) Skipping briefly back to Tuesday …
We continued our exploration of Haifa with a stop at a vista point from Mount Carmel, overlooking Haifa Bay and an historic Carmelite church. You could see all the way to the border with Lebanon, which is where white rocks fall straight into the sea and the only place along the coast where there isn’t a beach, says our guide, Ziv. Trawlers and military boats shared the waters.
Elijah's dwelling place, inside Stella Marais.
While we didn’t make it to Elijah’s Cave, where Elijah hid from King Ahab and Queen Jezebel, we did see the cave in which he is believed to have lived, located below the alter in the church at Stella Marais Carmelite Monastery.
The structure at one time was an infirmary that housed Napoleon’s ill soldiers. The church has a wonderful painted ceiling of Elijah in his chariot of fire on his way to heaven and a striking black-and-white marble floor. The original church was destroyed; the current one was built in 1836.
Baha’i Gardens.
We next strolled through one of the 18 terrace levels at the Baha’i Gardens, which have been open only since 2001. Stunning. Precision landscaping; flowing lines of trees, plants and flowers; and rich textures and colors make for a beautiful and peaceful sanctuary. The founder of the Baha’i settled in Haifa during the mid-19th century, after being persecuted in Persia.
Our tours of ancient cities also began in earnest on Tuesday with trips to Akko, the Druze community of Pekee’in and Safed, a center for Kabbalah study. (See below for info on Akko, and I’ll address Safed in a future post. For info on Pekee’in, and another take on sights we saw this day, check out fellow traveler Janelle Nanos’ post on the National Geographic Traveler blog.)
Entering Akko.
Akko, also known as Acre, is a wonderfully preserved port city on the north end of Haifa Bay. It dates back to at least the 19th century B.C.E., and was an important site for the 13th century warring crusaders and Muslims, between which it passed hands a few times. As you walk among the layers of the civilizations that have been—and continue to be—unearthed at this site, you can’t help but feel the weight of not only the massive rocks used to build the solid structures and fortifying walls, but also the thousands of years of history this city has experienced.
Crusader-era vaulted ceilings and columns (left); Al Jazzar mosque and minaret.
You’ll see the remains of a citadel; Al Jazzar mosque, which stands on the site of a former crusader cathedral; large halls beneath arching ceilings used for dining, dormitories and meetings; old courtyards; narrow escape passages; and the remains of a destroyed market as well as an intact one, still in use today. Roam the stone paths that wind past vendors hawking general housewares, pastries, fresh squeezed juices, fish, nuts, spices, etc.
Akko market.
I guess no place is immune to the boutique hotel trend. On the way out we pass the chic-looking entrance to Akkotel, a relatively new property housed in a corner of one of Akko's fortified walls. Will have to check it out on a future visit, because there is much more to see of this incredible historic site.
We then got delayed a bit in what to an overhead observer would look like the middle of traffic puzzle, with drivers trying to maneuver in front, behind and around each other. Why the jam? Some roads and parking areas were closed beginning the day of our visit due to a new archaeological find in the area.
And so the discovery of history continues.
Photos: Donna M. Airoldi
