TravelMusings

3 Posts tagged with the hiking tag
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Hiking Half Dome inside Yosemite National Park is an incredible experience and an achievable goal for most hikers.  But at 18 miles round-trip and almost 5,000 feet of elevation gain, this is not the kind of hike you do last minute.  To complete it safely and successfully, one must be prepared.

In late September I had the good fortune of hiking Half Dome for the first time.  There were eight of us in the group.  Three had hiked Half Dome before; the other five had not. The decision to do the hike was made in July.  In the two months leading up to the big day, we shared notes, met twice to discuss packing plans and logistics, and most importantly, hiked almost every weekend.  Those training hikes were valuable for numerous reasons:  They helped us build stamina, enabled us to come together as a group, and made us aware of our individual and collective strengths and weaknesses.  Knowing your limitations is really important before tackling a hike like Half Dome.


Our hike began from the trailhead adjacent to Curry Village at 11:00 PM.  We decided to hike up at night to avoid the notorious crowds at the cables, which are a frequent occurrence on summer weekends.  It was a moonless night so, we each had a head lamp, which provided adequate lighting.  If you decide to do a nighttime ascent, it’s recommended that you pick an evening with a full moon.


On the way up we opted for the gentler grade of the Horse Trail that veers around Vernal Falls and intersects the John Muir trail above Nevada Falls.  This proved to be a good decision as it allowed us to preserve energy for the notorious steps at the subdome and the cables along the final push to the summit.  On the way down we took the Mist Trail which, while incredibly scenic, is extremely steep and jarring on your knees.

 

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Heading up the the cables                        Kevin Fliess 2009

 

It took us about 7 hours to reach the summit and we arrived on top just prior to sunrise.  The views of Yosemite Valley are breathtaking and watching the sun come up over the Sierras is something I’ll treasure forever.

 

The Essentials - What to Wear

  • Quick drying synthetic layers including a shell.  “Cotton is rotton” when it comes to endurance activities.  Cotton can chafe, becomes super heavy when wet, and takes forever to dry.
  • Brimmed hat
  • Sunscreen
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking socks (wool is best)
  • Hiking boots – I wore low-rise, lightweight boots.  Break them in before you go – not on the trail.


What to Bring

  • At least 1 gallon of water per person.  Or, to save yourself some weight, carry a portable water filter.  The last water on the way up is at Nevada Falls.
  • Plenty of high-carb, salty snacks.  Trail mix, crackers, nuts, PB&J sandwiches, bananas, etc.  You want things you can eat while hiking.  Hike day is not the day for the Atkins Diet.
  • A first aid kit
  • A phone
  • Gloves for the cables
  • A camera
  • A headlamp if you are hiking at night
  • Optional but recommended: hiking poles


Tips

  • Do the hike on a weekday, if you can. 
  • If you’re going to hike on a weekend, get up early.  Plan on starting no later than 5 a.m.  We were so grateful that we started early because we never felt rushed, and we beat the crowds to the top.  The stream of people coming up as we were going down was astonishing.
  • Know your turn around time.  Give yourself a preset deadline to head back down so you don't get stuck hiking in the dark.
  • Don’t do this hike alone.
  • If there is any chance of rain or lightning as you approach the top, turn around.  There is no shelter on the summit.  And as the numerous warning signs will remind you, lightning has struck the top of Half Dome every month of the year.
  • If you’re hiking with a group, carry walkie-talkies.  If the group splits up it’ s great way to keep in touch on the trail.
  • If you suffer from a serious fear of heights, think twice before tackling the cables. 
  • Train well in advance.


For more information on hiking Half Dome, check out these resources. 


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The author on "the visor"                                                       Kevin Fliess 2009

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Last month, I hostel-hopped across Guatemala with a couple of girlfriends. Guatemala borders Mexico and Belize, and is a land of stunning geographical and cultural contrasts. It’s also home to 33 volcanoes and some of the most active volcanoes in Central America.

 

Guatemala’s prime volcanic region lies in the country’s Western Highlands, a region of phenomenal hiking. Lago de Atitlán is ringed with volcanoes (dormant) and the giant lake is a caldera (collapsed volcano), the result of a massive ancient eruption.

 

Volcán Pacaya

 

If you want to hike alongside lava, head to Volcán Pacaya. This popular hike near the historic Mayan capital of Antigua, is steep, challenging but not too difficult, and will let you feel the heat; some hikers roast marshmallows over the hot lava rocks1 The 7,600-foot Pacaya is always a different experience for each visitor because its continuous eruptions mean that it’s growing and changing shape all the time.

 

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Bubbling lava on Volcán Pacaya. Photo by Alexander H. M. Cascone.

 

The hike is an hour and a half up and an hour back down. Be prepared for volcanic gravel in your shoes, burning quads and breathtaking views. There are several vista points, which are phenomenal on clear days but still awe-inspiring to see in the drizzly afternoon of rainy season. Volcán Agua, below, is one of three other volcanoes in the vicinity. At the top, you’ll see—and hear—the gushing, spurting lava and fireballs rolling down the volcano.

 

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Volcán Agua peeking through the clouds. Photo by Ray Rogers.

 

Getting There

 

Several tour companies in Antigua offer tours to Pacaya. We booked a tour through our hostel, Casa Amarilla. It’s an excellent hostel; 45Q per night (US$5.50) gets you a delicious complimentary breakfast, free Internet and clean drinking water.

 

It takes about an hour and a half to drive to the trailhead, where you’ll be greeted by a knowledgeable local guide (who will only speak Spanish) and dozens of village kids who’ll try to sell you ponchos and hand-whittled wooden trekking poles. I declined, but after an hour into the hike as it continued to get steeper, I sort of wish I’d bought the stick!

 

The tour guide stops often to ensure everyone is traveling together in a group. [Note: there are occasional reports of “banditos” in the area, but the guides are lightly armed and have radios to contact other support staff on the mountain; I felt completely safe.] For those who make it halfway and realize you can’t go any farther, locals with horses will come to your assistance.

 

Our tour cost: 90Q (US$11) with another 40Q (US$5) for the entrance fee into Pacaya National Park. Check out Quetzaltrekkers, a reputable trekking outfitter that specializes in daylong and multi-day volcano hikes.

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Want to walk across the United States? This hikers’ dream is fast becoming a reality after Congress designated the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail (PNT) on March 29, 2009—the first addition to the National Trails System since 1983. The 1,200-mile trail extends through some of the country’s most rugged terrain, from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean on Washington’s Olympic coast.

 

For the past 30 years, the nonprofit Pacific Northwest Trail Association has maintained and erected signage for the trail system. But with federal backing comes money for real improvements, trail extensions and bridges to help more trekkers utilize and discover the route. It also helps close the gap of a future transcontinental trail system.

 

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On the Pacific Northwest Trail. Photo: nordique

 

A Sea-To-Sea Route

 

The well-known Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) runs from Mexico north to Canada, where it connects with the PNT. Ron Strickland, longtime trail system advocate and one of the early backers of PNT creation, says the next step is to designate the undefined 900-mile section that will connect the PNT to the 4,200-mile North Country National Scenic Trail and on to the Appalachian Trail (AT)—creating a massive 7,700-mile “Sea-to-Sea” trail.

 

Congress designated two other trails along with the PNT this year: the Arizona and New England National Scenic Trails. For more information the National Trails System, go to www.nps.gov/nts. To learn more about Ron Strickland’s work and trail news, go to www.ronstrickland.com.

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