With so much culture and history are at your fingertips, you may have a hard time deciding which site to see first, second, and so on. Rest assured, tours abound in Cairo for every type of traveler and for any wallet size.
The Sphinx
The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx are a powerful testament to the ingenuity of the ancient Egyptians. The best time to visit the area is early in the morning. As the day wears on, the crowds increase, especially during Egyptian holidays, as does the chance of being assaulted by dozens of postcard vendors and men offering rides on camels. The Giza pyramids are easily reached by city taxis or public transport.
The Pyramids are a marvel of engineering, and archaeologists have puzzled over exactly how they were built—and some more esoteric types have wondered why. It is, however, generally accepted that the Pyramids were built as tombs for the ancient kings, an evolution from the single-stepped mastabas that designated burial sites in earlier times. Pyramid building was popular from about the 3rd to the 13th Dynasty with the biggest and best examples to be found in Giza.
The Sphinx, an ancient monument, has sparked many controversial theories. Egyptologists, however, agree that the Sphinx was built by Khafre's workmen. The enormous lion statue has recently had a face lift, as experts endeavoured to save the structure from further environmental damage and undo some earlier shoddy restoration work. Visitors can view the Sphinx only from a distance now, but it is still possible to see the Dream Stelae between the forepaws, erected by King Thutmose IV, who fell asleep one afternoon in the shade of the then-buried colossus and in a dream was told to clear the sand which had engulfed it. The Sphinx has sat as a silent sentinel for nearly 4,500 years, gazing to the east, witnessing the growth of the ever-changing Cairo.
Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops)
Soaring at nearly 147 meters, the massive granite Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops), is the largest and the most enigmatic in Egypt. The smooth Tura limestone which once encased the granite structure is no longer intact, and the pyramidion (capstone) is long gone. A separate ticket is required to enter the Pyramid, and since the authorities have limited visitors to 300 a day, it is advisable to arrive at the nearby ticket-kiosk early in the morning.
From the entrance, the descending passage takes you down to the Subterranean Chamber, currently closed, whilst the ascending passage takes you up to the so-called Queen's Chamber, which is not, by the way, a burial chamber. Continuing the ascent, the spacious Grand Gallery, with its high corbelled ceiling, brings you to the King's Chamber, where the granite sarcophagus of King Khufu lies empty. Unlike other Pyramids, the King's burial chamber is above ground. Two small openings can be seen in both the King's and Queen's chambers - these are the controversial "air shafts" which have spawned all sorts of interesting theories. That eerie hum you might hear inside is not spiritual energy channeling through the structure, rather a ventilation system that was installed several years ago.
The interior of the Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren) is currently closed for restoration, but the complex is visible. Some of the limestone casing near the top still remains, giving the pyramid an interesting profile. The ruins of the eastern mortuary temple are still standing, and the causeway (in ancient times a covered passageway) takes you to the remains of the valley temple, where the mummification ritual would have taken place.
Solar Boat Museum
Outside the Pyramid, to the east, you will find the black basalt pavement where the mortuary temple once stood, and a causeway which in ancient times would have led to the valley temple. Three small Queen's Pyramids also stand on this side, near the Solar Boat Museum (admission LE10). This museum has an exhibit of a wooden boat that was excavated and subsequently reconstructed by Ahmed Youssef. The boat, from one of five boat pits surrounding the Pyramid, symbolically offered passage for the king into the afterlife.
Pyramid of Menkaure The "little" Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus), standing a respectable 62 meters high, was unfinished at the time of the King's death, and completed by his son. The nasty gash on the north face was caused by earlier explorers trying to dynamite through in order to find the entrance passage. The pyramid is open to visitors, and lately seems to take the bulk of the tourists denied admission to the Great Pyramid, so is therefore not for the claustrophobic. The burial chamber is empty—the sarcophagus was removed and subsequently lost at sea when the ship, transporting it back to Great Britain, sank.
Outside, you can see several courses of granite casing, and the desert in front of the entrance is littered with stones removed from the Pyramid itself. Like all of the Pyramids of Giza, Menkaure's was once seen as a convenient stone quarry for medieval builders. To the east stands the remains of the mortuary temple and the causeway, whilst to the south are three Queen's Pyramids.
An alternative way to enjoy the pyramids is to attend one of the nightly Sound and Light shows, presented in several different languages. Though it may seem a bit too "touristy" to some, the narration has some historical interest, and the light show is truly beautiful. Others prefer to rent horses from one of the many nearby stables and have a gallop in the desert surrounding the Pyramids. Take care as many of the Pyramid horses are poorly trained, and riders have reported more than a few nasty spills.
Step Pyramid
If you still have energy and time after wandering around Giza, head south to the Saqqara complex, dominated by the Step Pyramid of the 3rd Dynasty King Zoser. Built before the Pyramids of Giza, this Pyramid shows the evolution of design from the single stepped mastabas to the final smooth-sided Pyramid structures that would follow in the next dynasty. Other beautifully-inscribed tombs of noblemen and official, as well as later dynasty Pyramids, are also open to visitors. The eerie Serapeum, a funerary catacomb built for the sacred Apis bulls, is currently closed for restoration.
Red Pyramid
South of Saqqara is the rarely visited site of Dahshur, where Khufu's father Sneferu built the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid. The latter's unusual profile was caused by a change of building angle halfway through construction. The Red Pyramid gets pretty close to the architectural perfection of the Giza Pyramids, and you can explore the interior without the claustrophobic crush of the Giza crowds. In the distance, the unusually shaped mudbrick pyramid of Amenemhet III.
A word of advice: It is best to hire a car to visit Saqqara and Dahshur, as the sites are far from the main road, and transportation back into Cairo is not easy to find.
Surrounding the Pyramids' area are numerous souvenir shops, and towards Saqqara and Dahshur you can find a lot of carpet stores where weaving techniques are demonstrated. Popular restaurants nearby include Andrea, serving delicious grilled chicken in a garden-like atmosphere; Christo, offering fish meals and a good view of the Pyramids; and the lower-priced Felfela, serving a range of traditional Egyptian fare. The nearby Mena House Oberoi Hotel is a relaxing place to stop for a drink after touring the site, and has an exquisite Indian restaurant as well. For those who have more than a casual interest in Pyramids, Mark Lehner's book, "The Complete Pyramids" is quite comprehensive, and available at most bookstores and hotels in Cairo.
Old Cairo
Old Cairo, or Masr el-Qadima, provides a historical link between Pharaonic times and the Islamic period. This district was the center of Cairo during Roman times, until after the Arab invasion. The historical sites in this area, which has been continuously inhabited for around 2000 years, are surrounded by modern residences. Old Cairo is easily and best reached by the Metro—the Mar Girgis stop is directly in front of the cluster of Medieval Churches and the Coptic Museum.
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