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Destinations » Europe » Italy » Regione Campania » Naples » City Guide: Getting There/Around

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Spaccanapoli


There is a street in Naples that splits the city from East to West; it is in fact a series of streets that follow one another consecutively, crossing some of the most important main roads of the city and some of its monumental piazzas. This long, straight gash is known as Spaccanapoli, and it is visible from the top of Vomero where San Martino looks down onto the maze of palaces, roofs, churches, cupolas, spires, roads, and side streets that have been the beating heart of the city for more than two thousand years.

This tour begins on Via Maddaloni, where Palazzo Carafa (built in 1528, with a magnificent 17th century gateway) sits on the corner of Via Toledo. Continuing along Via Domenico Capitelli, you will reach Piazza del Gesù Nuovo this square represents the meeting point between the ancient Greco-Roman "Neapolis," and medieval Spanish Naples. The piazza takes its name from the Church of Gesù Nuovo, which still has the 15th century façade of the earlier palazzo of the Sanseverin on which the area was built. The inside of the palazzo is an admirable example of Baroque art, richly decorated with multicoloured marbles (among these is the splendid "Cacciata di Eliodoro dal Tempio" di Francesco Solimena). A few metres further on is the convent complex of Santa Chiara, built at the behest of Roberto d'Angiò and his wife in order to host a double convent for the Poor Clare nuns and the Franciscan monks. The church stands next to the impressive 14th century bell tower and has a Provencal Gothic style. It houses the tomb of Roberto d'Angiò and the funerary monuments of the Neapolitan nobility of the time. Behind the main altar, the Choir of the Poor Clare nuns conserves the remains of frescoes by Giotto and his school. The ample space of the Chiostro is marvelously decorated with majolica tiles, and is a real gem of 18th century Neapolitan art. The piazza is completed by Palazzo Morisani and the Palazzo Pignatelli di Monteleone, which is embellished with an artistic doorway. At the center of the piazza the Guglia dell'Immacolata (a spire built in the first half of the 1700s) stands out against the sky. Heading back to Spaccanapoli, you will come across Via Benedetto Croce, lined with monumental palazzi, among them Palazzo Filomarino, which was built in the 14th century and later redecorated with baroque detail; Palazzo Venezia from the 1400s, which has also been renovated; and the Palazzo Carafa della Spina, recognizable by the lions with open jaws that decorate the door.

Follow Via B. Croce into Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and you will be struck by the Guglia (spire) dedicated to Saint Dominic Around. The layout of the piazza revolves around this spire, and it owes its current design the Aragonese period (15th century) when it became one of the nerve centers of the city. The apse in the Basilica di San Domenico Maggiore is characteristic of the piazza, with its refined medieval crenellated tower, but it also has a large central rose window and a 16th century marble doorway. Built in 1283 on the site of a Romanesque church whose structure of the right hand nave is still conserved, it holds the tombs of Aragonese sovereigns and nobility. The main entrance of the Basilica (with its 14th century wooden door) is situated in a courtyard and can be accessed through Vico San Domenico. The piazza is surrounded by palazzi which maintain their original structures, such as Palazzo Casacalenda, and is mostly known today for the famous patisserie it houses: the 15th century Palazzo Petrucci, the Palazzo Corigliano, headquarters of several departments of the Università Orientale (University of Eastern Studies), and the Palazzo Sangro di Sansevero, built in the first half of the 16th century and bearing an impressive 18th century portal. The Cappella di Sansevero, to the left of the palazzo on Via de Sanctis, has a collection of wonderful sculptures, amongst which the Cristo Velato is a real 18th century masterpiece. There are two human corpses in a cellar of the chapel, the remains of experiments conducted by the mysterious prince Raimondo de'Sangro. A slight detour down the historic Via Mezzocannone leads into Largo San Giovanni Maggiore where it is possible to see the marble embroidery on the stupendous Gothic doorway of the San Giovanni chapel, the church of San Giovanni Maggiore, built in the 4th century on the remains of a temple dedicated to Hercules, and the Palazzo Giusso del Galdo, home of the Istituto Universitario Orientale (Oriental Institute). Turning back to Piazzetta Nilo, you will enter the area that was inhabited by Alexandrian merchants, who erected Statua del Nilo for them to worship. Tradition has it that this statue became the "Corpo di Napoli" (body of Naples). The Chiesa di Sant'Angelo a Nilo is well worth a visit as it contains noteworthy examples of Renaissance art. Via San Biagio dei Librai begins at the end of the piazzetta; it is a lively, narrow street filled with artistic treasures. The street is lined with Renaissance palaces, among them is Palazzo Carafa Santangelo which has a terracotta horse head in its courtyard, the Palazzo Carafa di Montorio where Pope Paul IV was born, the palazzo del Monte di Pietà with its splendid chapel annex, and the Palazzo Marigliano. Amongst the famous churches are those of Saints Filippo and Giacomo, San Nicola al Nilo which is recognizable by the goods of a junk dealer who has used the places at the sides of the stairs as storage, and the small church of San Biagio Maggiore built on what is said to be the home of San Gennaro. Among the many shops in the street (birthplace of Giambattista Vico) is the interesting doll hospital, which is worth a visit. One of the Neapolitan's favourite streets cuts across the "decumano inferiore": the ancient Via San Gregorio Armeno, where skilled artisans create nativity scenes. The road takes its name from the church of San Gregorio Armeno, built on a Greek temple that underwent much renovation in the 19th century. Turning onto Via San Biagio, Via Duomo pops up ahead of you. In Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi, you will find the church of San Giorgio Maggiore. Not far from the church, the 15th century Palazzo Cuomo is home to Prince Filangieri's Civic Museum. Returning to Via Duomo again, the Complesso Archeologico Carminiello ai Mannesi, an archaelogical complex, is well worth seeing. Spaccanapoli continues its course, through stalls and vendors, up Via Vicaria Vecchia, which leads into the old Jewish quarter, Via Giudecca Vecchia, up to Forcella where part of the Greek Wall is visible in Piazza Calenda.

The Decumano Maggiore

The second tour leaves from the Duomo and ends at Port'Alba, working in the opposite direction. Numerous side streets link that follow the ancient "cardines" (streets heading from north-south) the two tours, with Via Duomo being one of these main streets. The Duomo (built in the last few years of the 13th century), still has an impressive and beautiful façade and three 15th century doorways. The interior is richly decorated in a 17th style, but traces of previous centuries remain and add to its splendour, the Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro (situated inside the Duomo) has to be visited. An integral part of the Duomo is the Basilica di Santa Restituta, built in the 3rd century, it encapsulates the Angoino era. From the right hand aisle of the Basilica, you can access the 5th century Battistero di San Giovanni Fonte. In the sixties, a massive archaeological complex was discovered under the Cathedral. Here, it is possible to see layer upon layer of history, from Greek to Medieval. Via Duomo is intersected by Via dei Tribunali as it heads towards Corso Umberto. This was the ancient decumano maggiore (east-west roads). Turning right, after a short walk, you will reach Piazza dei Gerolomini, distinguished by the presence of the Chiesa dei Gerolomini, which contains the tomb of Giambattista Vico. A little further on is a place that was first known as the Greek "Agora" and then the Roman "Forum" in ancient Neapolis, it is now Piazza San Gaetano. This is where the most important civil and religious buildings were built. The Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore and that of San Lorenzo Maggiore were built on the ruins. The former was founded in 778 on the remains of the temple of Dioscuri, and still has precious frescoes and the two Corinthian columns from the former temple; the latter was built in the 13th century on an early Christian, 6th century basilica, which in turn was built on the area of the macellum (market). This is a marvellous opportunity to visit the archaeological excavations underneath the basilica. The tour continues along Via Tribunali, amongst Renaissance constructions such as Palazzo Spinelli di Laurino or the Palazzo di Filippo d'Angiò, ending up in Piazza Miraglia where it meets Via del Sole, where the Greek "Acropoli" once stood. In the piazza, on the corner of Via del Sole stands Cappella Pontano one of the best examples of Neapolitan Renaissance art. To the right is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore, built on a former Basilica, which still conserves the ancient Romanesque bell tower and the remains of a Roman mosaic. The remains of a monastery (Chiesa della Croce di Lucca - demolished to make way for the old Polytechnic) can be seen in the small piazza. The Gothic style church of the 14th century San Pietro a Maiella blocks off the skyline the square. Past the nearby Conservatoire stands Piazza Bellini where a statue dedicated to the great musician stands in a small area of green, erected close to remains of the Greek walls. The piazza is close to Port'Alba, and past here is Piazza Dante and a new tour!!

From Pizzofalcone to Piazza Dante

In order to better understand the historical evolution of the city, from its remotest origins to its domination by the Spaniards, it is advisable to follow this third tour, which takes in the site of ancient Parthenope.

The tour begins behind the famous Piazza del Plebiscito where the streets rise towards what used to be Mount Echia, now known as Pizzofalcone. From the terrace close to Via dell'Egiziaca to Pizzofalcone it is possible to have an idea of how the first inhabited center of Naples must have been, around 7th century BC, when the Greek colonies of nearby Cuma founded Parthenope. From above, you catch sight of lo Scoglio di Megaride, where legend has it that the body of the siren Partenope was washed ashore and that here her body was buried and revered by the first "Neapolitans." Parthenope took the name of Palepolis (old city) when Neapolis (New city) was founded, but unfortunately, nothing remains of the city, and the only testimonies to its existence are those that come from the "necropolis" discovered in Via Nicotera. In the piazzale, in front of the 16th century Palazzo Carafa Sanseverino, remains are still visible of a construction built in the 1st century BC, which could be the remains of the Villa belonging to Lucullus which stretched out to the islet of Megaride and on which was built the Benedictine monastery, which was then transformed into the nucleus of Castel dell'Ovo built in the beginning of the 1100s by the Normans. In Via Monte di Dio stands Palazzo Serra di Cassano built in 1700, it has a spectacular stairway that leads to the piano nobile. The churches of Santa Maria degli Angeli and Santa Maria Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone are interesting. At the foot of Pizzofalcone is the splendid Piazza del Plebiscito walled in by a grandiose portico of Basilica di San Francesco di Paola on the west side constructed in the early part of 19th century. Opposite the basilica is the 17th century façade of Palazzo Reale. Palazzo Salerno and the Prefecture complete the piazza. In the center of the piazza stand two equestrian monuments dedicated to the Bourbon kings Ferdinand I and Charles III. Piazza Trieste and Trento is next to the piazza with its wonderful fountain "del Carciofo" (artichoke fountain) and one of the most historic cafés: Gambrinus. In the piazza stands the baroque Chiesa di San Ferdinando in front of this stands the Palazzo Vicereale. From Via San Carlo one will find the main entrance to Galleria Umberto I and Teatro San Carlo. Via Toledo also starts from the piazza: it is still the most important street in the city, built according to the wishes of Viceroy Pedro da Toledo in 1536. Along the street there are elegant palazzi, once residences of the nobility and many churches in a distinctly baroque style. One of these, Santa Brigida, has precious paintings by Luca Giordano. Continuing on past monumental palazzi, bank headquarters and elegant shop windows, you reach the corner of Via Diaz and the Madonna delle Grazie from the 17th century. Not far, in the area of Montecalvario, stand the church of Santa Maria della Concezione (17th century) and the church of Montecalvario (16th century). Just past Piazza Carità is the church of San Nicola, which has various treasures of 17th century Neapolitan paintings, including works by Francesco Solimena. From Piazza Carità, turning onto Via Morgantini, you will reach Piazza Monteoliveto, adorned with one of the most important fountains in the city, built in 1668 in honour of the Infant king Carlo II of Spain. In the piazza is the Church of Sant'Anna dei Lombardi built at the beginning of 1411, which houses elegant tombs and is a wonderful example of Renaissance Art. The altar relief of the Cappella Correale di Benedetto da Maiano is an outstanding piece as is the Gruppo della Pietà by Guido Mazzoni. There is also an admirable 17th century organ. The piazza is completed by the famous 16th century Palazzo Gravina, which is now a university faculty. Returning to Via Toledo and Via Sant'Anna, you will find the Chiesa dello Spirito Santo, further on is Piazza Dante one of the most vital parts of the city; as well as the statue to the great poet, there is the important façade of the Foro Carolino, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli in 1757 and decorated by 26 statues portraying the virtues of King Charles of Bourbon, Palazzo Bagnara and the often mentioned Port'Alba.

The façade of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale is to be found in Via Pessina (not far from Piazza Dante), the museum has works of art of international importance, from excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum; the Egyptian section is also well worth a look. If you want to continue exploring the city, then you can continue along Piazza Cavour and Via Foria, up to Piazza Carlo III. By making small detours on this route, you will find other important places and monuments such as Via Costantinopoli, home to important monumental churches and the Academy of Fine Arts, Porta San Gennaro, Porta Capuana, Castel Capuano, Botanical Gardens and Palazzo Fuga which are nearby.

Napoli Sotterranea

Naples has been developed in an area where primordial volcanoes have deposited sediment, which then solidified into light, malleable yet resistant, rock – good building material and easy to excavate. Settlers, from the Greeks onwards, tended to use this material, and the oldest western aqueducts were dug from it, grottoes and large catacombs like underground basilicas. Under the palazzi in the historic center, the ancient cisterns and the narrow canals of the Acquedotto della Bolla were enlarged and deepened to dig out the tufa necessary for the raising of the palazzi. In this way, the surface of Naples has left its imprint deep within itself.

It is possible to visit underground Naples today, accompanied by groups of speleologists on simple yet evocative excursions amongst the galleries and tunnels of the old acqueducts which link the city to the water supplies. One of the entrances is under the Basilica di San Paolo where one can visit the underground city that stretches to San Gregorio Armeno. The other entrance is at Sant'Anna di Palazzo in the Spanish Quarter, where a steep spiral staircase leads on to a tour that winds along to the zone of Chiaia, in the dark which is only split by the lamplight of the guides, among narrow tunnels, spacious cisterns and enormous caverns that were used as air raid shelters during the Second World War.

Il Lungomare e Posillipo From Piazza del Plebiscito, turn right after Palazzo Salerno, and you will enter Via Cesario Console which leads down to the sea and crosses Via S. Lucia after a while. The main road, ran next to the modest homes of the fishermen, it was modernized and widened in the 17th century and became one of the busiest and most pleasant roads in Naples. Almost immediately to the left is the small church of S. Lucia a Mare, because the shore rose from here. Inside the church is the revered, wooden statue of Santa Lucia. The road ends with the Fontana dell'Immacolatella situated in one of the most picturesque points of the city and dating back to the beginning of the 17th century. The fountain leads you onto Via Partenope. This street links the dock of Borgo Marinaro with the massive port of Castel dell'Ovo, one of the most distinctive places in the city. Santa Lucia also leads to Via Chiatamone, which was full of prehistoric grottoes, and which also leads to Piazza dei Martiri, one of the most elegant Piazzas with its monument to those who gave their lives in all the wars. Returning to the sea, you will reach Piazza della Vittoria where it is possible to visit the 17th century church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. Almost half of one side of the promenade is dominated by the Town Hall and its park, rich with its trees that are centuries old, its monuments and fountains from various periods of history. The villa also has 19th century buildings, among them the Chiosco della Musica, the Palazzetto del Circolo della Stampa and the Stazione Zoologica founded in 1872 by the naturalist, Antonio Dohrn and it also includes the oldest Acquarium in Europe. The Villa ends in Piazza della Repubblica, which has the Monumento allo Scugnizzo in the center. Along the elegant Riviera di Chiaia, you will find the Neo-Classical Villa Pignatelli surrounded by a beautiful park, the Museo Principe di Aragona Pignatelli Cortes can be found inside the Villa. Piazza della Repubblica leads to Mergellina, the tourist port of the city, there is a beautiful fountain (in Piazza Sannazzaro), which pays homage to the myth of the Siren, Partenope. The church of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta is reached from Piazza Sannazzaro, and it is the center of all the most famous popular festivals. It is said that the Tomb of Virgil lies behind the church, in a park at the foot of the hill of Posillipo, close to the Cripta Neapolitana, in an ancient Roman Columbarium. The tomb of Leopardi lies in the same park. Returning towards the sea, passing the Lion fountain (which stands in the piazzetta of the same name) we reach the church of Santa Maria del Parto, it was built in 1449: it stands out because of it unusual pictorial decorations of pagan themes requested by Sannazzaro. These decorations surround Sannazzaro's tomb. At the end of Via Caracciolo in Largo Sermoneta is the 17th century Fontana del Sebeto.

The walk continues up the picturesque Via Posillipo and ends in the Via Marechiaro, this leads to the district of the same name, which was the setting for the famous Neapolitan song "fenestella."

Outside the City

Classic Journeys offers a guided tour of Naples and the Amalfi coast.

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