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The Centro Histórico is a challenge to memory, where innumerable architectural styles, museums and religious monuments speak of centuries of history, culture and a rich artistic heritage. Walk the footsteps of Aztec ancestors where the streets reveal the mysteries of the city. Start at the Hidalgo underground station and take the green exit leading to the Alameda Central and the Pinacoteca Virreinal de San Diego (the Vice-Regal Gallery of San Diego) next door. Occupying what once used to be the Convento de San Diego, the Pinacoteca was built in 1621, facing the pyre of the inquisition, where the Holy Tribunal set its sentenced heretics aflame during colonial days. The gallery houses one of the most important collections of religious art from the 16th and 17th centuries, including paintings by Luis Cabrera and Luis Juárez.
From here continue to the Hotel de Cortés, a beautiful baroque building with a stone façade and wrought iron balustrade, dating back to 1780. To the right of the Pinacoteca Virreinal, discover the Museo Alameda, where Diego Rivera's most famous mural is housed. Painted in 1948, his "Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central" (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Central Alameda) was brought here after the 1985 earthquake, rescued from the rubble of the Hotel Prado. This mural reflects Rivera's view of Mexican history and his childhood memories within the framework of a typical Sunday stroll in the city's central park. Diego depicts himself as a child standing in front of his life-long love, Frida Kahlo, and holds the hand of the well-known figure of the Calavera Catrina (skeleton caricature by José Guadalupe Posadas, she depicts pre-Revolutionary fashionable ladies).
At the far end of Alameda Central, the Plaza de la Santa Veracruz is where the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios is found, displaying its wonderful façade—the oldest in the city. Next door, the Museo Franz Mayer houses an interesting collection of Mexican applied arts and the Museo de la Estampa (Print Museum) exhibits a series of José Guadalupe Posada's engravings of the Calavera Catrina figure mentioned above. To one side, the Iglesia de la Santa Veracruz, the plaza's namesake, is one of the most important baroque buildings in the capital, for its architecture and for the brotherhood Hernan Cortés established here, in gratitude for his safe arrival in the Mexican port. The remains of the Spanish sculptor, Manuel Tolsá are buried here. The nearby palatial white marble wonder of the Palacio de Bellas Artes housing several museums, includes the Museo Nacional de Arquitectura and boasts murals by Orozco, Rivera, Siqueiros and Tamayo.
Continue down the Calle de Tacuba to reach the Plaza Manuel Tolsá upon which the Palacio de Minería is found. Built by the prolific architect and sculptor whose name graces the grey-stoned building, it is a perfect neo-classic example from the era of the vice royalty. The equestrian statue of Carlos IV of Spain, known as El Caballito (The Little Horse), was moved about until finally finding its current place in front of the Museo Nacional de Arte. This building, erected in 1911 under the strictest canons of the Italian renaissance, has 24 halls of paintings and sculptures from the era of the Viceroyalty to today, and could take up the full part of one day to visit.
Behind the Munal, on the Calle de Doncellas, stand the Cámara de Senadores (Senator's Chambers), the Teatro de la Ciudad (City Theatre), along with a string of bookshops for used and rare finds. Reaching the end of this street, the Catedral Metropolitana is a synthesis of architectural styles leading up to the 19th century, reflecting the three hundred years it took for its completion. Next door, the Sagrario Metropolitano (Shrine) best exemplifies the religious architecture of the Spanish Baroque Churrigueresco-style. The Palacio Nacional is in the vicinity, as are other Federal District governmental buildings. Take the underground at the Zócalo station one stop in the direction of Cuatro Caminos to the Estación Allende. Leaving the station, the Café Tacuba awaits the hungry, with Mexican food, mariachi and the rhythm of rondallas (street musicians) to finish off the day.
Tour through the Bosques de Chapultepec
One of the few remaining "lungs" of the city, the green expansiveness of the Chapultepec Woods is a popular place, particularly on Sundays. It is divided into three sections by large avenues with lakes, museums and other sites of interest for outdoor fun. Take the underground to the estación Chapultepec which leads to the main entrance of the Castillo. Here is the first section of the woods where it is easy to get about on foot. Upon exiting the underground, stands the Monumento a los Niños Heroes. Dating from 1952, this semi-circle of six columns stands tall commemorating six young soldiers who died defending the Castillo de Chapultepec upon the invasion of the United States in 1847. At that time the castle served as the Colegio Militar. From here follow the signs to the Castillo and at the foot of the hill a small red brick, Germanic-style building from the 19th century houses the Casa de los Espejos (House of Mirrors)—for a bit of distorted, playful fun. Part of the Castillo itself dates from 1785, home to the Viceroy of Nueva España and in 1843, it became the Colegio Militar. Later, Maximilian of Hapsburg and his wife arrived in Mexico in 1864, refurbishing it for use as their private residence. The original furnishings remain on view in some of its halls, as remnants of their occupants. It currently serves as the Museo Nacional de Historia and offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city. Visit the Casa del Lago (Lake House) or the expansive Museo Nacional de Antropología. Finish the tour off with a ride in a taxi colectivo or pesero to the Hidalgo station of the underground metro, passing by the statue of Diana Cazadora and the Monumento a la Independencia also known as El Angel de la Independencia in the Zona Rosa. One need only wander the streets of this area in search of a place to eat among the array of dining options.
The City Centre and its History
Mexico City has always been cosmopolitan, revealing centuries of history hidden in its streets and buildings. Take the underground to the Zócalo / Plaza de la Constitución station where the Palacio Nacional and the Catedral Metropolitana are situated. Take Calle Guatemala behind the Cathedral to the alleyway called Pasaje Seminario, where at address number 8 the journey begins into the origins of the history of Mexico at the Templo Mayor. These ruins of the ancient Aztec ceremonial city of Tenochitlán date back to around 1325 and underwent seven stages of construction. The Temple's museum houses a monumental sculpture of Coyolxauhqui and the Caballero Águila (Eagle Knight).
Moving on, the Catedral Metropolitana and Sagrario Metropolitano exemplify the church's influence in Mexico. The Calle República de Brasil runs along the side of the Cathedral and leads to the Plaza de Santo Domingo tracing back to 1628 and demonstrating the Baroque influence on local culture. Here the Museo de la Medicina, dedicated to all things related to medicine, stands where once the Palacio de la Inquisición served the purposes of the Inquisition. Travelling down Calle Argentina the Colegio de San Ildefonso with its 19th century facade was once the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria until 1978 when it became a cultural centre. Inside there are numerous murals by three renowned revolutionary muralists Orozco, Siquieros and Rivera. It is said that the painter Frida Kahlo first met Diego Rivera here. When she was a student at this preparatory school he painted frescoes of the 1910 revolution vindicating the oppressed.
September and October months are the season for the traditional chiles en nogada (Stuffed Poblano Chile Peppers) to be savoured at the Hostería de Santo Domingo on the corner of Calle Palma, upon crossing the plaza. Created especially for the Emperor Agustín de Iturbide, who played a crucial role towards Mexican independence, this delicacy reflects the three colours of the national flag. Along Calle de Tacuba, the Plaza Manuel Tolsá is where the Museo Nacional de Arte, Edificio de Correos and the Palacio de Minería are situated. The equestrian statue of Carlos IV of Spain overlooks this plaza.
Finish the walking tour at Calle Madero where the Torre Latinoamericana stands, along with the mansion of the Conde del Valle de Orizaba, known as the Casa de los Azulejos, dating back to 1737. The revolutionary Emiliano Zapata and his men had breakfast here upon entering the capital and later José Clemente Orozco embellished it with his mural "Ominsciencia"("Omniscience"). It now forms part of the well-known Sanborn's chain of restaurants.
Tour to the South of the City
San Angel and Altavista are, without a doubt, two commercial districts that command tourist attention for their shops, sites of interest, restaurants and nightclubs. Located just south of the city, the cultural, entertainment and recreational options are countless. The Casa de la Cultura San Angel and the Ex-Convento del Carmen are two worthwhile sites to see for those interested in art in its various forms of expression. A few steps away, the Museo Carrillo Gil is situated.
At the Plaza Jacinto, in the Jardín de Arte, a weekend art fair is held where painters and sculptors exhibit and sell their work. Trendy night-spots, peñas (traditional festive gatherings) and bars await those eager to join in the fun along the Avenida de la Paz. Mexico's popular traditions, customs and natural reserves are found further south, including Tlalpan and Xochimilco where delightful trajineras (small covered boats) take the traveler through the legendary Aztec canals known as chinampas.
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