Many of the restaurants on Cozumel serve Mexican fare that focuses on seafood. However, visitors can also enjoy French, Italian, Cajun and Yucatecán cuisine. Fast food chains, including KFC, Subway, Burger King and Baskin Robbins, are in abundance in downtown San Miguel. Street vendors sell everything from corn on the cob to fresh orange juice. If you are really lucky you may come across one selling homemade hot tamales.
Cozumel is not a late-night town, since most of its visitors are up bright and early to enjoy the sights or dive the reef. What little nightlife there is on the island is confined to San Miguel. Restaurants along the east coast tend to close at sunset since many do not have electricity. But downtown party goers keep things hopping from the late afternoon until midnight. A few clubs and bars stay open until 2am, along with with an elite handful that cater to die-hards and stay open all the way to 5am.
San Miguel As the only city on Cozumel Island, San Miguel sees a lot of tourist traffic. During the day the city's numerous restaurants and bars are packed with tourists, many from the cruise ships docked at the international pier or day-trippers from the mainland. Reservations are recommended at those places that accept them. It is a good idea to arrive early at those restaurants that do not accept reservations. Lunchtime, particularly if a cruise ship has arrived, can be the most hectic meal of the day. Most of the fine dining restaurants do not open until the evening and do not cater to the cruise ship crowd.
Avenida Rafael Melgar is the most heavily traveled street in San Miguel, so naturally the most popular restaurants are clustered here, many with waterfront views. Those in search of fresh tacos head to El Foco, while seafood enthusiasts can be found at Acuario, dining amongst aquariums filled with tropical fish. Jeanie's Restaurant offers hearty breakfasts until 3:30p while the French Quarter brings a taste of New Orleans Cajun cuisine to San Miguel. Pizza lovers will be happy at Nino's Pizza or at Guido's, where the pasta is also fresh and delicious. Java drinkers and people-watchers frequently stop in at Coffee Bean, Zermatt Bakery, or Rock and Java Café to enjoy a cup of coffee, delicious pastries or a quick bite.
Caribbean-style meals in a romantic atmosphere can be found at La Veranda, while Prima offers fresh pastas and salads. The island's Italian ex-patriots hang out at La Cucina Italiana (that includes the chef). Be sure to check out Pancho's Backyard for its delightful Mexican menu geared to the gringo stomachs. Those who like to get off the beaten track will enjoy the innovative cuisine of La Cocay. This small restaurant is considered the best on Cozumel.
Casa Denis, La Choza and El Turix are all recommended for the adventuresome who would like to try Yucatecán dishes like pollo pibil (chicken in banana leaves) or poc chuc (pork steak marinated in a sour orange sauce) and tikinchic (fish in a sour orange sauce). These regional delicacies are world-renowned and shouldn't be passed by.
As for bars, Carlos 'n Charlies is generally the most popular as it is in the center of the downtown party circuit. Margaritas and frozen daiquiris are the most recommended beverages at Fat Tuesday, another open-air bar that has a DJ who keeps the joint rocking. The Hard Rock Cafe is part of the Cozumel party tradition, where having a good time is priority number one and T-shirt buying has become a routine custom. Los Dorados De Villa is known for its impressive tequila selection and generally stays crowded until closing. Neptuno Dance Club is another great place to go dancing. For those who would like listen to hot jazz and smoke Cuban cigars, The Havana Club is just the place.
North Hotel Zone
Just north of San Miguel, there are several fine restaurants worth the 15-minute drive. The Palma Azul beachfront restaurant offers a laid-back atmosphere and casual dining. It's located in the Playa Azul Hotel. Half a block away is the kitschy La Cabana del Pescador, a lobster lover's haven.
South Hotel Zone
About 10 minutes south brings you to Las Gaviotas, serving seafood and Mexican cuisine at the Sol Cabanas del Caribe. The La Ceiba Hotel is home to La Chopa Loca, where Mexican cuisine and piña coladas are the house specialties. For a more laid back option, there's the Hogtown Café.
Eastern coast
When leaving San Miguel, follow the Costera Sur Highway until it turns north into the Eastern highways. Right at the crossroads is the funky Paradise Café, where margaritas and reggae are a way of life. A few miles further at Playa de San Martin is Coconut's Bar and Grill. Located on the island's only hill, it has a spectacular view and offers light fare that is popular with divers and casual diners. The highway ends at Mezcalitos Bar & Restaurant, the quintessential beach restaurant on the dramatically beautiful beach of Punta Este. From here it is a short haul back to San Miguel.