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There are three different areas to explore on Cozumel: town, beach and jungle. Town walks center on the plaza and local neighborhoods away from the water. Beach walks take you to either the West or East coast while jungle treks are usually done with an experienced guide.
The best time of day for walks is in the early morning or late afternoon. The mornings are still cool and uncrowded before the invasion of mainland day-trippers and shoppers from cruise ships. In the late afternoon, the trade winds cool things down, especially on the eastern side of the island, which gets the breeze first. Plan to be indoors at dusk, also known as "the mosquito hour." Evening strolls along the malecon (boardwalk) or around the Plaza Central are pleasant but are riskier on the side streets because of the dangerous combination of no sidewalks and many besotted motorists.
Most of the tourist stores stay open during the afternoon. Mexicans still take their biggest meal of the day between 1p and 4p, so expect things to slow down during these hours. Take your cue from the locals and get out of the afternoon sun. Things wake up again around 5p and stores stay open until 9p, dinner being the lightest meal of the day. There is some nightlife, but Cozumel is not a late-night resort. Dress is casual here, though most restaurants will frown upon short shorts, halters and bikini tops in the evening. Traditional Maya women wear huipiles, a loose white dress with colorful embroidery along the neck, while men favor loose white shirts called guayaberas with light linen slacks. Both are sold in souvenir shops.
Exploring the Town: San Miguel de Cozumel
With a street grid so logical that you can't get lost, the best way to see the city is to wander about with only the barest of itineraries. Take a stroll around Parque Benito Juarez in Plaza Central or through downtown, where one-way streets befuddle out-of-town drivers and local drivers treat pedestrians as moving traffic cones. Cafes in San Miguel open early and are pleasant places to sit and watch the town start its day. For a nice walk, head east along the Avenida Benito Juarez past Iglesia de San Miguel, turn south along Avenida 25 Sur and walk one block to the Town Market and local school. Head east along Calle Adolfo Rosada Salas to Avenida Pedro Joaquin Coldwell and the Stadium Beisball. Keep walking south to Avenida 11 Sur and then turn toward the waters to pass by the island's cemetery on the right and City Hall on the left. Back in town you can enjoy an excellent breakfast in Museo de la Isla de Cozumel.
Exploring the Beaches: Parque Chankanaab & Playa San Francisco
Parque Chankanaab is home to a freshwater lagoon connected to the ocean by a series of underground caves. The lagoon is now closed to swimmers but has a very nice beach and excellent snorkeling with tame fish, underwater statues, sunken cannons and ships. There are also botanical gardens and an archaeological park on-site, with reproductions of the most famous Mayan artifacts. For an extra charge you can swim with dolphins or watch sea lions perform. It is worth the USD7 admission. Though it is crowded at times, Playa San Francisco has two miles of great beach offering a nifty "there and back" hour-long hike with lots of diversions along the way. Enjoy aquatic activities—snorkeling, windsurfing or kayaking—or visit one of the palapa pitstops that serves barbecued shrimp and cold beer. Sunday is the best day to share the beach with locals, without the cruise ship and day-tripper crowds.
Exploring the Jungle: Parque Punta Sur and Punta Molas
Take a rental car or a cab — for a hefty fee some will drop off and return — to Parque Punta Sur. Located within the park are Laguna Columbia, a lagoon filled with wildlife, El Caracol, the conch-shaped Maya ruin and the Punta Celerain Lighthouse, now a navigational museum. There is excellent snorkeling just off the beaches when the surf is not too strong. The park rents out snorkel gear and kayaks. A superior hike can be found along the 15 miles of rutted sandy road that runs north to where the Costera Este Highway ends. Rental companies will void your insurance if you drive along this road, so it's best to either hike in or take a jungle tour with Wild Tours. Along the way you will see the ruin of Castillo Real . If you can find the right trail, the San Gervasio ruins are just inland. Other trails head back into the forests to hidden cenotes and unexplored ruins. For the hearty hiker there is also a two-day trail that takes you to the northwestern side of the island to Isla de la Pasion. If you stay on the road, it ends at Punta Molas Faro. The view here is spectacular and worth the hike.
Staying Safe
When heading out to the jungles, be sure to bring along bottled water and bug repellent (with at least 80% DEET). It is best to wear a wide-brimmed hat, long sleeve shirts and pants, and socks and shoes to minimize exposure to ticks and other biting bugs. Watch for dehydration. The early warnings are dizziness and irritability. Get out of the sun immediately if you start to experience symptoms. As tempting as they look, do not swim in the freshwater cenotes—they are home to hungry, fast crocodiles. Hiring a guide to explore the more untamed parts of the mangroves and forests is recommended. On the beach, be sure to wear a hat and plenty of sunscreen. If you are fair-skinned, stay out of the sun between the hours of 11a until 2p. Leave your valuables in the hotel safe or rent a beach locker.
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