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Frothy whitecaps dancing on the shimmering sea gave little clue of the events unfolding in the murky depths fathoms below. Far beneath the ocean floor, heat and pressure built until it no longer could be contained; molten lava spewed along the sandy bottom of the sea. Again and again throughout the eons the volcano relieved its pressure, building layer upon layer of hardened formations that would one day reach and penetrate the ocean's surface. The forces of nature, over an incalculable period of time, completed the gestation and birth of an island that would grow through the centuries to become the sixth largest in the Hawaiian chain.
During its formative years, when the earliest seafaring explorers began to venture onto Hawaiian shores, the island was considered the 'home of demons' and given a wide berth. Massive explosions still lit the night sky and smoke belched from the crater. The earliest settlers, who came from the Marquesa Islands more than 2,000 years ago, found new homes on the other islands, staying away from the glowing land mass called Lana'i.
Rock formations of a mysterious, almost alien nature are still to be found in the Garden of the Gods in the north central portion of the island. This isolated red plateau overlooks the Palawai Basin, the floor of the once smoldering volcanic birth mother.
Pre-contact Lana'i
The laws of island society were strict, with wrongdoers punished by death or banishment to Lana'i, the molten home of evil spirits. One day, according to island lore, the son of Chief Kaululuaau committed a crime worthy of the strongest sentence, that is, death. Pleas for mercy were heard and the son was exiled to Lana'i with a mandate to rid the island of its dark inhabitants. Having achieved his goal by sending the vile spirits to Kaho'olawe, he returned home as a hero touting the beauty of the island paradise. So it was that Lana'i became inhabited around 1500 A.D. Throughout the years, the residents of the island lived in relative obscurity. The Luahiwa Petroglyphs and other ancient carvings and ruins are among the only noticeable remnants of the first Polynesian settlers. However, the settlers were also responsible for the lush plant life on the island. They brought sugar cane, banana, elephant ear, bamboo and breadfruit from their home islands. At the height of Lanai's popularity, King Kamehameha the Great established a summer home on the island so he could partake in the excellent fishing.
Kaunolu Village is a remarkably preserved ancient fishing village and home of Kahekili's Leap, which looms nearly 90 feet above the ocean. Warriors once proved their bravery by diving from the top into the shallow water below. Some of the best-preserved petroglyph carvings can be seen at this village on the south side of Lana'i.
Europe Discovers Lana'i
Offshore conditions were not at all friendly to the first European colonists. Unwary vessels, blown off course and pushed by strong currents, met their fate by crashing into the coral reef along the coast. One may still see some of those unfortunate vessels today as they rust away underwater or—as in the case of Shipwreck Beach—above the whitecaps in the distance.
Keomoku Village, the population hub in the 1890s, now lies abandoned. The town prospered in its earlier years and the Maunalei Sugar Company announced great plans for sugar plantations in the area. While constructing a railroad along the coast, the builders destroyed a temple, and bad luck seemed to hamper the project thereafter. The company ceased its efforts and closed in 1901. One of the few remaining buildings of the village is the Malamalama Church, which has been beautifully restored.
The Pineapple Island
In 1922, James Dole purchased the island of Lana'i so he could grow pineapples on its fertile land. Large plantations formed, and the island became the major producer of the tropical fruit. Amazingly, this small speck of land produced 75 percent of the world's pineapples. In 1961, the Dole Pineapple Company merged with Castle & Cooke, and that entity took over management and ownership of the island. Most of the once-prospering plantations have moved for economic reasons and barren fields remain now—only about 100 acres are currently devoted to pineapple growing. Many colorful plantation homes remain in Lanai City, which was created by the Dole Company. It is still the only real town on the island, and the news of the day is still posted on bulletin boards at its post office.
Factual Tidbits
Lana'i is the second smallest of the eight major Hawaiian islands. Lanaihale Peak, at 3,370 feet above sea level, is the highest point on the island and provides the only place where one can view all of the islands in the Hawaiian group. The Munro Trail leads to the apex of the dormant volcano; the path is surrounded with wildflowers, pines, eucalyptus and ferns.
The island is 18 miles long and 13 miles wide, having only 29 miles of paved roads! The population of the island fluctuates from approximately 2,500 to 3,000 people, most of whom live in Lanai City. Of the 1,200 employed residents, most work for Castle & Cooke in their farming or hotel ventures. Lana'i is part of Maui County along with the islands of Moloka'i, Maui, and Kahoolawe (which remains uninhabited to this day). The wildlife population on Lana'i includes a herd of around 8,000 Axis deer, descendants of eight deer brought from India during the mid-1800s. Unfortunately, due to overgrazing and excessive farming, many indigenous plants, trees and flowers are now in jeopardy.
Lana'i is still the least visited of the major Hawaiian Islands, with only about 100,000 tourists per year. Bill Gates, who can travel anywhere he chooses, decided to spend his honeymoon on this beautiful and secluded island. For people who value serenity or shun the beaten path, the Private Isle is perfect.
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