Jorgosz, Budapest, Hungary

Greek restaurants must now come second to Italian in popularity with Hungarian eaters, as many return from reasonably priced holidays abroad with a taste for olives, fresh fish and healthy salads. Jorgosz was one of the first Greek restaurants to open on a rather grotty street in the seventh district, but it still serves consistently good meals in a romantic setting. The cellar room at the bottom of steep steps is tiny. The blue and white checked tablecloths recall quayside dinners in Rhodes. Black and white photos of old Greek fisherman hang in groups on the walls and candles sitting in Greek wine bottles throw light on your meal. Crunchy sardines, artichokes with lemon sauce, aubergine salad, fried peppers in vinegar and oil, pickled octopus and white cheese with olives all make good entrées. The roast chicken, braised lamb with eggplant, breaded calamari rings, and moussaka are all good and vary in price. There are also good things for vegetarians: white baked beans, grilled aubergine and tangy salads.